- COB LED Heat Sink
- SMD LED Heat Sink
- Lighting Housing
- Commercial LCD Display
thermoelectric generator (heat to electrical power)
A medium-sized thermal energy conversion device. . .
By charging rechargeable batteries and any fire source, it is used for camping, survival or general use of charging for electronic equipment. .
Combined with a rocket stove or camping stove, there may also be bio-gas fuel (optional)
For more power generation, get a higher and faster burning speed.
Ideal for disaster survival applications, as it allows \"fire\" solar power generation from an easily accessible source to be only available effectively during the day, and it is hard and expensive to harvest moonlight, to generate the lens needed to collect electricity, the wind power does not always blow, and there are days when it is not at all. .
Fire is the next obvious choice of power supply, everyone knows that fire is powerful and dangerous, so be careful when using the device, be careful about the hot part on the radiator, etc. (
I am fully aware that there are other identical devices, which will be created using some highly improvised parts, using a different approach for others, which will help to reference and compare others)
1: Peltier Cell x1 (
From thermal energy to electrical energy)
2: medium aluminum radiator (
Rescue from old PC)
3: Choice of thick specification wire, x2 color. (optional)
4: input and output plugs/jacks purchased or manufactured in advance. (
For power input and/or output)(optional)
5: The Engineering box, if possible, can be partially insulated, using insulation materials, metal, foil, etc. (optional)
6: hot paste (optional)
Aluminum and foil (helpful)
7: Various connectors for battery/s
8: box knife or exacto blade. (
For cutting light metal)
9: heavy scissors (
For cutting metal)
10: screwdriver classification. (
For sealing item box screws and in and out
11. Classification of screws and bolts. (
For connecting metal plates and sinks
12: soldering iron and soldering tin (optional)
Safer for welding wires.
13: Rechargeable battery rated as low as medium power (for recharging)
14: The hot \"shrink\" piece used for heat insulation on the wire adds protection (necessary)
15: x1 blocking diode to prevent reverse charging.
16: x2 aluminum tank. (metal plate)
Month: thick copper wire.
18: Digital Multimeter voltage tester. (
There is no need to list any optional content other than a useful add-on
Open or connect like a battery box and a reverse charge diode)
The construction of the main housing and the work unit itself is very simple.
1: First cut your metal plate parts, cut your x2 beverage cans, cut their top and bottom, then cut them in half and do it with two pieces of metal, until you have 4 aluminum metal flakes, grab your x acto blade or boxcutter, align the 4 pieces, then use something and now cut a cross x4 in the four corners of the metal, once carefully curling the metal outward with pliers or scissors, insert 4 screws with 4 bolts into the hole you cut for the plate, and use pliers to bend the remaining metal sharp bit down the bolt. . . . .
The bottom plate is finished.
2: If there is hot paste, now apply it to the radiator and substrate with an old credit card to place the peltier module on the cold side where the radiator is located and on the side where the bottom is heated, check this by connecting x2 1.
5v batterys and hold peltier to feel which side, gently push into the hot paste, place the radiator on top of peltier and gently push into the paste again, now, set the last part of the device itself using pliers to bend thick copper metal around the radiator and under the bolts on the base plate, place some complex curved light metal around the bolts on both sides, fix the radiator in the sandwich with peltier module and substrate. . . . .
The main unit is completed.
Use a tea candle in a small bean tank covered with insulating tape, make a 30-second bracket with a pc cpu fan metal grate shell and some metal rods, which bracket is used by the \"thermal power unit: the power rises slowly on the flame and will continue to climb to the set voltage based on the Heat facing the substrate, also (Cold)
The radiator will be cooled quickly in cold weather, which will affect the performance of the equipment. . .
Combined with a fuel or power rocket stove or heat source, it is possible to connect to the battery and, in turn, to power electronics.
Not for everyday use, because I imagine that peltier cells will eventually break down in some way to invalidate the device, however, being able to get power from any source or flame, this makes it ideal for going out, camping, emergencies, etc. (
For test and digital voltage readings and the speed at which it climbs, see the video, the indoor mini test of the \"tea candle\" secondary test on a small Hobo-style stove is about 3/4 minutes, let\'s say you keep adding fuel to the stove, giving a battery charge or two
When the UK decides to stop raining in a few days, a more detailed test will also be conducted to see the maximum output power.
Possible upgrades included.
1: add another peltier battery to the dual output voltage.
2: connect the Joules thief or more to a small amount of up voltage.
3: Use better thermal materials, larger \"radiators\" and thicker aluminum or metal substrates.
4: copper tape or hot paste to connect Peltier cell/s to the radiator more safely for better heat transfer.
5: Use only rocket stove equipment to generate local heat in one place below the unit, reduce heat loss, open fire sends heat to all directions as a rocket stove, more is confined to a single place, creating more efficient heat distribution and more energy collection. .
6: Use multiple linkage units, use 2 or more complete machines on a fire pit collector, connected in series to double output voltage.
7: additional insulation on wire, foil and insulating tape (
The rocket stove will melt the wires a little)8.
Double, there are two things, installed in the right container with the generator. (
There will still be spare parts even if something is broken or burnt out)