- COB LED Heat Sink
- SMD LED Heat Sink
- Lighting Housing
- Commercial LCD Display
thermoelectric fan powered by a candle
It started as an experiment on how much energy I could get from a candle.
But I like the idea and it works really well, so I made this electric one.
I don\'t use high temperature TEG-
Modules, but cheap TEC-module.
Can still handle 200 degrees Celsius which is good enough.
Please check my other project with a more powerful TEG: or how to create a self-regulated thermoelectric CPU
Cooler: It\'s also known as the peltier element, and it\'s called the Seebeck effect when you use it as a generator.
Hot side, cold side.
The module generates a power supply to drive the motor, and the motor fan/airflow will cool the upper radiator.
Higher temperature difference => increased output power => increased motor speed => increased airflow => increased temperature difference, etc.
The airflow spreads heat to your room, which is the purpose of this building.
You can also use it as a stove if you unload the basement
Fan from other heat sources or move air.
The motor started to turn at a difference of about 15 degrees, which surprised me that when I took it outdoors, the radiator on it was colder than the basement.
You can put it in hot water, put it on the ice, put it on the pizza, and it works just as well.
The total cost is about 50 euros (incl. shipping costs).
I used some spare parts, but I bought most of them.
Components used: CPU-cooler (cold side)
: Zalman CNPS5X (
Substrate: 33x33mm)CPU-cooler (hot side)
: From old PC (
WxLxH = 78x63x67mm)TEC-module: TEC1-07110T200 (30x30x3. 3mm)DC Motor: 1,5-3V USB-fan (
Metal, only fan required)
Hot paste: Arctic MX-
4 pieces of wood, 2 pull springs, 4 M4 bolts, 2 M3 bolts, aluminum tubes (optional)
TEC specification (at ΔT=68C): Vmax: 8.
Q: 10 Qmax: 52
7 Tmax: Source of 200 degrees Celsius: First of all, it doesn\'t need to be exactly those components.
Other radiators, TEC/TEG, motors, fans, hot slurry, bolts and bottom plates are available.
The main concept rules are: lower radiator (hot side)
Cut and polished to get a nice look.
When the flame burns and increases the distance to the surface, I keep the 5mm fins to absorb the heat well.
The new size is 78x63x15mm.
4 holes are drilled through the radiator, and the thread is m4.
4 bolts fix the lower radiator to the top of the wooden platform.
The bolts go through the platform from below and cover with aluminum tubes to get a better look Design and screw into the radiator.
The distance between the wood and the radiator is 35mm, but I will make it 40-
When the flame touches the surface almost, 45mm.
You don\'t want it because it produces black soot.
The lower radiator gets very warm, but at the same time it works as a cooler and doesn\'t get too warm, which will melt TEG-module.
The two springs installed on the M3 bolts fix the upper radiator to the lower part, TEC-
Between the module and the hot paste.
Both surfaces of TEC are covered with a smooth hot paste.
The springs add pressure and isolate the heat to the cold side.
The upper radiator can also be screwed into the lower radiator, but you need to isolate the screws.
TEC is connected directly to/welded to the motor, which is connected to the upper radiator via another small piece of metal and cable tie belt.
The fan is connected to the motor with small pulley and glue.
Result: I think the hot aluminum part is about 100-
150 degrees Celsius, I measured the temperature with a grill thermometer covered with hot paste, but I don\'t know how accurate it is. I measured 0. 4V and 0.
A candle and 25A of 0. 67V and 0. 54A with two.
This leads to 0. 1W resp. 0.
36 w output power.
However, the efficiency of generating electricity in this way is not impressive.
Candles produce about 25 watts, which means 0. 7% efficiency. .
But who cares, everything this machine does will eventually heat up in any way =)
It\'s a little fun, you add room-heating speed (I think)
But nothing is lost. .
It\'s a bit noisy running all the time.
More experiments are required to find the best motor/fan => airflow/noise levels.
Mod suggestion: edit: I changed the motor to \"Tian Gong 76005 solar motor 02 (Mabuchi RF-500TB)\". Got it on Ebay.
It is very strong at low rpm and I only give it 0. 5V.
Very good motor but most importantly it is quiet!
I can\'t hear it at full speed 2 m away.
It also provides stronger airflow.
Can run all the time now =)