Sometimes I find some unique trees or parts of trees when looking for firewood. This is a project made by one of these findings. I found this place where I was burned years ago. Many willows are alive when burning, so the wood is consumed only by the flame part, leaving interesting results. I couldn\'t help but think they were carved by the fire. The work inspired my imagination because it actually looked like a flame and I was wondering what it would be like if I put a lamp in the middle. This explanation is about the result and how the final result is implemented. Although the wood of this willow tree has been Frost-ridden, it still has sound. One of its more interesting features is that it has a burl. In this case, this is due to the tree\'s attempt to extend new branches over and over again from one place. Burl is often sought after by carpentry because of its unique texture pattern inside. The tree was really hard to survive before the fire ended. I think it is appropriate to make it into something, not just for firewood. The top of the tree is burnt out, which makes the center of the tree open, meaning it is easy to get bored outside. The amount of work to clean this tree is relatively small. I want to keep as much of its natural appearance as possible. As a matter of fact, I would love to have it not finished. But the problem is the chard part. The black coal still left will rub off on everything, leaving traces of charcoal and confusion. So after cleaning up the dirt and some rotten parts, I checked the whole thing with a clear finish to seal it. I have used an oil finish to a large extent because it does not mix with Coke but is coated with a layer and sealed. I bought a satin finish, but it doesn\'t look like satin when it\'s dry. It does seal the charcoal well, and now none of them fall off and can be touched. Because the willow tree is a dark red brown wood, this color is presented in the overall color. It looks very good and has gray weathered stripes through it. Overall, I like the result. I have been working with the LED recently and think that one of the 10 W small LED lights will do a good job of meeting that demand. It is very small and uses very little electricity. The real problem is trying to figure out how to set up the radiator. Although the power of this lamp is low, it does generate heat, so it has to have a radiator to prevent it from burning out. It suddenly occurred to me that I could install the LED and drain any heat with a copper pipe left on the water pipe. Copper is a very good radiator metal, so it should be enough for the job. Check the size of the LED and I found it to be perfect for copper caps with 1 inch tubes. Using the reducer from 1 inch to, gave me a raised pipe size that I can use to help secure the pipe in the log. The pipe gave me a pipe to run the wire and it took the heat out of the light. Near perfect solution I decided to use the yellow LED so it looks more like a flame. These LEDs are very cheap for less than $2. Usually less than $5 if you get it with power. They should have a life span of 50,000, so it is likely that they will never need to be replaced. If you look closely at the LED, you will find it on a thick aluminum base. This is where heat transfer happens. The small label on the side is used to connect the wire and-. When soldering wires to these wires, you need to use as little heat as possible. Mounting screws can also be used as a heat transfer mechanism. So they all hold the LED in place and help with the heat dissipation. You need to use the radiator compound to install the LED, especially since the copper cap is not flat. There is a big gap in it. The trial run of the LED was very successful. It heats the copper and keeps it cool. After a few hours the copper is warm enough to hold comfortably with your hand. What\'s even more amazing is that the LED itself stays cool enough that you can put your finger directly on the LED without any discomfort. Put it in the log and everything works as normal as I wish. I like the amber light. By the way, if you are not familiar with welding copper pipes, there are some instructions that will tell you how it is done. Or it would be nice if you had a friend who could do it. The joints do not have to be waterproof. They have to put the tubes together. However, do not replace welding with glue. The glue does not pass the heat, so it blocks the heat flow it expects. I decided to make a base with 2x4. The light of the log is not heavy, so Cork like fir should be OK. I have a 2x4 and it looks interesting. Looking at the end, I can see that it was cut from the middle of the tree. This can sometimes be a problem because something like this can be distorted or separated. To help minimize this risk, and also because it looks cool, I decided to Mitter. So I put a big square in the middle, with a diagonal part in the middle. If you have done such a thing, remember that you can do it without having to marry a tape measure. You cut to the right position instead of the measured position. It\'s not a problem if you make a mistake and cut a piece short. All you need to do is Cut the rest to match the size. However, the angle needs to remain the same, otherwise there will be gaps in your joints that cannot be combined correctly. I used a cookie joiner to line up and speed up the bonding. You don\'t need to use one, but they are fine. Just make sure to cut them correctly or you will have a problem. I used a few different Sanders and paper to polish the base. The grinder is good for beginners as it can remove a lot of material. But it can also be aggressive and leave traces, especially in soft woods like pine trees. The track Sander is more controllable. I decided to turn around on the side. I could have done a lot of different router edges, but simple rounding sometimes looks the best. Several minor errors occurred after polishing. I filled it in with wood putty and polished it with fine paper. For the legs, I used the rest of the Mitter saw cut. So I stick a triangle to every corner. I like the way it was. The base must be raised a little to accommodate the wires, copper and power drives of the LED. I used the same finish as the log. Not happy with it again. I might try to double-check the whole thing with fine steel wool to make it look less glorious. I haven\'t decided yet. To drill holes in the middle, I used a couple of drill bits and drill bits. My current large spiral bit is not long enough to go through all the way. So I started with a little bit long enough to keep going. Then drill out the rest from the top and bottom. You may notice that the bottom of the log is not solid. There are many rotten places in the middle. Of course, this makes it easy to drill out the core, but I need to stabilize it once I drill out the core. So I turned it upside down and dropped a bunch of wood glue into it. After drying, I changed to liquid nails and filled some gaps with it. This is the white thing. The glue will solidify everything and help to fit it to the end of the seat. I wanted to fill it with those bubbling things, but since it has the potential to expand to a lot and break my log, I decided not to use it. Another note --- Keep in mind that 3/4 of the tube will be one hole larger than 3/4. The size is the inner diameter of the pipe, not the outside. It\'s the same for any size and you need to be a bit bigger than the pipe. Once I put the copper tube with the lamp in the correct position, I marked the tube so I could cut it for the base. The idea is to expand the bottom of the pipe so that it is like a radiator. I cut with my little Dremel saw with a metal cutting blade. It goes very fast compared to trying with a handsaw. Remember, copper does not create sparks, but that does not mean that something from the blade is not hot. Use protective cloth. It is very simple to find the location of the drill hole on the base. Place the logs and pipes in place, then push down and reverse the pipes. For where to drill, it will leave you a good perfect mark. That\'s not what the screw says. There is only a certain amount of sound wood in this stump to support the screws. The trick is to find those spots. Tape measure is helpful. You can try to keep an eye on it, but then you will miss more. I used 3 1/2 screws to go through the base and into the log. You can know when you hit good wood and when you miss it. I have to say that I am satisfied with the results of all this. In addition to the fact that the log itself looks very noticeable, the effect of light is also very good. It illuminates the interior of the log and shines on the trunk of the chard with an orange light. It also produces interesting shadow effects on the ceiling. Using only 10 watts of power, it can work itself as a night light, and in this case, its effect is that there is still fire inside. Turning on the lights in other rooms adds an interesting accent and from the right angle you can see the flashing of the amber LED. It\'s cool. I think I have to look for something more to try out other projects.