- COB LED Heat Sink
- SMD LED Heat Sink
- Lighting Housing
- Commercial LCD Display
practical led lighting for fun and profit
This is the best time to go beyond the crappy LED throwie project to truly practical LED home lighting.
This instructable provides a way to do the same for others who have seen the trading space or the limit remodel Home Edition, replace the low voltage halogen lamp pendant you currently have on the kitchen countertop or island for the past 10 years
Recently, LEDs have made great progress in their luminous efficiency and cost.
In terms of efficiency, the current champion is the Philips luxon power led series.
Not only are the rebels small, about 3mm by 5mm, but there are models of 100 lumens per watt.
In contrast, typical incandescent lamps reach 15 lumens per watt and fluorescent lamps reach 75 lumens per watt.
The best source for power led is www. ledsupply.
Com, which sells a variety of LED products to meet all your LED needs.
The project we are interested in here is their \"Endor Star\", a thermal but insulated package with up to 3 Rebel LEDs installed on it.
I used 3x90 lumens/watt stars on the 480 drive with an output lumens of 700 mA.
This is almost equivalent to a typical 50 w halogen lamp that outputs the 600 lumens you may have in a low-voltage lighting system.
This LED array will cost 30 and will last for about $ month value of halogen lamp soaking in use month Watt and 6-October W for $ lifetime operating cost and $375 halogen lamp operating cost.
You need a drive circuit in addition to the LED.
Due to the planned manufacture of LED replacements for low-voltage lighting bulbs, we need a drive that can handle AC inputs.
Low voltage lighting uses a transformer to lower the typical 120VAC Power to a \"low\" 12VAC level. www. ledsupply.
Com can easily sell a 0-can accept 12VAC input and output adjustment-
700 mA output current for driving led strings.
So, continue to buy electronic parts in the LEDsupply or equivalent store.
You also need a potentiometer if you want to dim the LED bulb.
The end star needs to be mounted on a radiator, such as an aluminum corner or a part of the channel extrusion.
This will require drilling and threads as well as screws, radiator compounds and some wires. Materials:1.
3-wait for power led
Up Endor Star and 3 luxon Rebel 90 lumens leds2.
Constant current LED driver with AC input capability such as Buck Parker 03021-A-E-7003. 1.
25 \"aluminum extrusion section for heating. 4-
6 screws mounting back and forth resulting in Extrusion, 6-32 great works.
Tap for screw threaded holes, 6-
32 tap works fine.
Radiator compound for installation of LED to radiator.
Because the LED is isolated, you can use something like molybdenum defensesieze7.
Some wires can connect everything.
The 3 pieces of Endor star selected for welding tools and leads will dissipate near 7 w power.
Since the efficiency of the Rebel LED is about 15%, the 6 w of the input power will dissipate in the form of heat.
In addition, as the temperature increases, the output of the LEDs decreases, and the lifetime of the LEDs decreases as the operating temperature increases.
So it is in our best interest to keep them calm.
For this we install the led on the aluminum radiator.
The picture below shows how to drill holes in the selected radiator to match the layout of the LED array details in the datasheet.
You then need to tap them to accept the mounting screws and test the mounting screws for them.
In my case, I used 6-
I have 32 screws and a faucet on hand.
Your mileage may vary.
You may also need to polish and polish the aluminum surface to improve heat transfer before installing the LED.
To do this, start with 400 of the sand, move up to 600 of the sand sandpaper before moving to a polished compound like the mother\'s aluminum Polish.
Since these LEDs do not generate much heat, this can be overkill, but can easily be overkill.
The next step is to install the LED on the radiator.
As you can see from the photo, I only used four of the six holes to install and used the other two holes to run the power cord from the drive circuit.
This works fine as all 6 screws are not required to maintain good thermal contact with the radiator.
Before unscrewing your LED, put a bunch of radiator compounds under the LED star.
Since the end star is isolated, you can use radiator compounds based on metal or dielectric.
I use nickel. Anti-based on moly
Grab the grease on my hand as I can\'t find my radiator grease syringe.
I have no problem.
In addition, you will need to weld the wires to the LED driver and the LED array.
In my case, I don\'t want the dimming option, so I turned on the pins as indicated in the datasheet.
Since this project will be part of a low voltage lighting system with its own light switch, I have also ignored any switching capability.
LED unscrew, connect everything as needed, you can also stick the drive circuit to the radiator as it is too small.
The drive has no cooling requirements, but this will make it easier to install the system. See pic.
After connecting the LED and drive to the radiator, you will need to test the bulb.
Since the buckpark driver with AC capability can handle both AC and DC inputs, the appropriate input voltage is applied and the brightness is observed.
Since you have 3 LEDs in series, you need at least 12 V input to be delivered to full brightness at 700 mA of the output, as the LEDs drop by 10.
2 V, the drive needs a clearance space of 2 v.
If the input is low, the output will dim.
If your LED is not on, please read the data sheet carefully and check your line carefully.
At this point, it is a good idea to double check if your fixture is really low voltage.
Take out the multimeter, set it to AC, and measure the voltage on the terminal of the lamp with power on.
You should be 12-15 VAC range.
If you see 120VAC, then you need a supplementary step-down transformer to reduce the voltage to the maximum rated input voltage 36VAC of buckbuck.
You can buy one at Home Depot or Radio Shack.
Since you only need about 10 w for your LED lighting system, you can spend it with a very small transformer.
Now that the LED is working properly, the next and final step is to replace it with a low voltage halogen lamp.
I simply removed the halogen lamp and fixed the LED assembly in place with a rope in my halogen lamp.
The wattage of the LED is low enough not to melt.
When I was working, I also temporarily raised the glass shadow with a clip, blocking my way. See pic.
Enter the power input line into the fixture as needed and flip the switch of the test drive.
The picture below shows the LED lights in my kitchen.
The photos were taken without a tripod, showing the lighting power of the LED light.
In my opinion, the Everbright produced is about 75% of the light produced by the 60 w halogen lamp it replaces.
About 10 minutes later.
When the LED components are quite warm (~40C)
But it\'s not hot.