- COB LED Heat Sink
- SMD LED Heat Sink
- Lighting Housing
- Commercial LCD Display
led maglite (cree xm-l modification)
1000 lumens monster!
Many flashlight enthusiasts who are familiar with the CPF (
Similar modifications may have been seen, but most of the modifications there use all the web-based parts because this part uses \"less\" online ordering and more localized hardware store items
The project will run for about $50, excluding batteries.
There are other cheaper DIY alternatives and production flashlights that may bring you better deals (
USD to lumens)
But if you like flashlights and DIY then this project is for you.
This modification can be done by a \"beginner\" with limited flashlight knowledge, welding skills and basic ideas on how to take advantage of limited resources.
Other useful links (
How did I learn to build this)
: Lighting materials required for candle power Forum budget are as follows :-Maglite 2D (
Local hardware store)-
3/4 diameter Pvc coupling (
Local hardware store)-
3/4 \"x1/2\" reducer coupling copper (
Local hardware store)-
Non-spherical mirror-LED-Cree XM-L (Bin T6 or U2-I used U2)-LED Driver -Heat Sink -
Northern silver hot adhesive or similar-
Multi-share month AWGs-O ring 50mm -small spring (
Salvage of old/cheap flashlight)-
Insulation foam (2\"x2\")-18650 battery-
Panasonic or any well-known brand can.
Don\'t buy ultrafire 18650 batteries even though they are expensive.
There are too many fakes outside, and the quality is too bad.
You can also avoid buying the recharged cr123a shown in the picture. [
Thick small diameter rubber bandheat-
Shrink tool :-Hot Glue Gun -Soldering iron-Solder -Flux -Pliers -
Metal cutter and stripping
Electrical tape-Torex T-8 screwdriver -Superglue -
Pipe knife 1/8 \"-1-1/8\" -Drill -Knife -
Twice as small as staples. Ruler -Sharpie -Masking Tape -Q-tips -
Rubbing alcohol you may need :-
Switch replacement-Dremel -Multimeter -Steel Punch -
The digital calipers ensure that all parts are checked before and during assembly to ensure that everything is OK.
Because Maglite uses a D-cell battery, it is necessary to convert the battery tube to a battery suitable for CR123A.
To do this, you wrap the 3/4 PVC coupling with tape until it fits the diameter of the flashlight room.
Insert it in to check if it is appropriate and take it out. (
Cut a rubber band, wrap it around the tube, save some tape)
Next, you have to replace the spring because the tail spring is too large to be in contact with the small battery.
Remove the spring and replace the bulb.
Then, remove the insulating foam and cut it so that it can be flush inside the tailcap.
Take a wire and make sure it is in contact with the metal in the tail cap and weld it in place.
Put the already cut insulation foam in the tail cap to make sure the wire sticks out.
Weld the wire to the tail cover and make sure the wire stays in the position on the foam.
The tail cap modify complete. (
* Don\'t turn on the lights-
Once the tail module and the new battery are plugged in, you burn out the bulb if you turn it on)-
But then again, it\'s basically rubbish now.
Future projects can stay spring.
To get this done, you have to have a torex t-
You have ground the shaft to fit the head that is held.
First unscrew the lens assembly, remove the bulb, then remove the rubber cover, and then insert the ground screwdriver inside. (
If you feel resistance, it means that the screw driver shaft is too fat, it blocks the way the spring goes, so you have to grind the wrench more carefully)
If you have finished this step without drilling, proceed to the bottom paragraph.
** I can\'t grind the shaft fine enough so I broke the switch assembly.
* If you encounter the same situation, take a drill bit and drill into the whole until you see the torex screws.
Then insert the torex wrench and remove the screw.
Throw away the damaged parts and leave only the black cylinder behind.
For more information, see how google takes out the maglite switch.
Once you isolate the black cylinder (
Case of switch assembly)
, Remove the assembly at the top of the switch and cut off the part of the outstretched tower.
Continue to polish the surface of the switch assembly until it is flat. The heat sink (
Buy from ebay)
, Too big to fit into the top of maglite.
To polish aluminum, wear working gloves, go outside and start rubbing the sides evenly on the concrete so that the radiator becomes the right diameter.
Check with digital card pliers.
The copper reducer coupling also acts as a radiator in this project.
In order to have the correct focal length between the lens and the LED, you have to cut it into the right size.
Take the clamp first and measure it.
45 \"from the bottom, mark it with sharpie.
Continue cutting off the part with a pipe cutter.
It may take some time because it is tedious.
Use clips and some adhesive tape to make work easier. (
If you are not sure how to use the pipe cutter, please use youtube)
Continue the next paragraph.
Copper needs to be mined now. (drilled): First, mark .
30 \"from the top, identified with steel punches. Move .
25 \"finish and repeat. Next measure .
30 \"start at the bottom and mark it with a steel punch (
Only when you mess up the switch assembly).
You should now have 3 dents in copper.
In addition to the indent area, cover the copper in the masking tape. (
In case of bit sliding)
Clip the copper and drill through the copper with a 1/8 drill bit.
Make sure to drill at a very low speed.
Sinking will take away the heat so it won\'t overheat and burn out.
Arctic Silver hot paste is a non-conductive glue water material that transmits heat to metal.
Once set, it is impossible to remove.
Northern silver note.
Connect the LED to the aluminum radiator using the northern Silver thermal adhesive (
Follow the instructions in the attached link)
The next step is to prepare the driver and the radiator driver.
The test installs the driver in a copper radiator with the wire side up (output wires).
Test whether the two wires will pass through the two holes on the top.
If it is good then weld the input line to the drive.
See attached pictures.
After completing this step, test the drive again in the copperheat sink.
Then, in Q-
Clean the copper inside.
Follow the instructions on the website to mix the hot adhesive and be widely used in copper radiators.
In this case, excessive is OK.
Insert the drive inside and the output leads through two top holes.
Make sure there is no gap between the driver side and copper.
Keep it in place until it holds on to itself.
The red and black wires are then welded to the output wires. (use heat-
Shrink pipe for covering welding)(
About 3 inch of the wiresred and black)
Place the LED heating sink on top of the copper sink and peel the output wire to the desired length.
It may be helpful to leave only 3 wires.
If you are able to unpack the switch without any problem, reassemble it and weld the positive and negative poles in the input drive wire to the switch.
Heat shrink everything.
Then move to the third paragraph.
If you have to drill out the original switch, connect the manafront switch to the label.
First, weld a black line on the spring, and then weld another on the outer gold ring.
Then, connect the spring line to the negative input line of the drive.
Then take another black thread and slide through the bottom hole of the copper. (
This is the ground)
Then weld the red line from the battery terminal to the silver sheet (positive).
To make sure there is no short circuit, everything is heated.
Next, glue the copper radiator onto the black switch assembly.
After that, insert the entire switch assembly through the back of the flashlight tube.
Please read this paragraph if you have a switch problem.
Before you plug everything into the flashlight tube, sprinkle some theanodizedarea near the opening inside the flashlight tube.
After doing this, weld a black wire on the part you just polished and attach the black wire from the bottom hole to the wire you just welded.
It is now a complete circuit.
Place the LED unit on the top of the copper sheet and pass through the wires in red and black.
Weld these to the LED.
To install a non-spherical mirror, remove the original reflection and plastic lens.
Insert rubber O-
Ring the top of the non-spherical mirror and place it inside the reflector body, tightening the crown.
Then, go back to the flashlight.
You should test all the components to make sure they work before Manual and test things before you permanently glue them.
Having said that, now that you have completed the project, plug in the battery, remove the light from your face and release the beast.
These are photos of flashlights.
Of course, the sun is always brighter, but this kind of light is comparable to most car headlights, and is undoubtedly foolproof in terms of brightness and price, but Surefire still has the ability to convince people of their lives.
It\'s amazing for a home flashlight, but on the street, carry something that can be abused.
Fenix, JetBeam, foolproof, O-ring
What you can \"really\" rely on is light, streamer, etc.
This flashlight is very reliable through my test, just don\'t abuse too much.
At night, make sure you know what you\'re shining on, and this thing can take someone\'s night vision away for quite some time.
If you have any questions, post the questions in the comments.
If you do this project, post your photos in the comments! Good Luck!