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corebot - corexy 3d printer

by:Mingfa Tech     2019-12-18
I want to build a very reliable printer that is ready for the E3D tool replacement mechanism when it is finally reallocated.
This is just a large corxy machine at this stage as the E3D tool changer has not been released yet.
I also doubt that the clamping/changing tool mechanism can produce enough force to reliably maintain a direct drive extruder with a full size Japanese 17 stepping machine.
As per my requirement, E3D tells me that it should work to drive the tool head directly.
This must be tested.
At first I planned to build a Supercube/Supercube evolution, but soon found out that the design wasn\'t rigid enough for the building area I was aiming.
So I started to optimize all the parts and changed all the linear guide rails from Hiwin (MGN9 and MGN12).
I also tried the rails and bearings of the egos, but they didn\'t solve the problem for me (to much play).
While doing this, I also added an \"electronic compartment\" to the back using 3060 aluminum extrusion \".
The building area of the printer is about 500x500mm square meters. The y-
The shaft is optimized, leaving room for the tool replacement mechanism.
I include an Excel sheet, so you can calculate the required length if your target is a smaller or larger version.
In the first iteration, I chose to use the direct drive system (
More like a super cube)
, I\'m trying to use a Bowden setting that doesn\'t work at all.
I always have wood clo, and then again
Assemble hotend multiple times because I think it is a gap between hot creap or nozzel and break. But after zip-
Tie my E3D Titan to x.
Everything is fine.
Obviously, the super cube is not suitable for installing a heavy extruder to x-
Stand on this size printer.
The file name shows the number of each part you need. X-Y-
Motion: I chose to use the linear track of Hiwin, the track \"width\" of the y-line is 12mm
And x 9mmaxis.
You can order from China (approx. 80€).
If you want the best experience, choose geniune HIWIN-rails (
I recommend it.
Quality Control in China is not so good, about 700 euros). Z-Move: z
The shaft consists of 2 10mm lead screws and 4 12mm light slide bars to keep everything in order.
I found that at the length of the swivel, 500mm z-
You need to constrain the spindle to the top and bottom when moving to keep the distortion/ghosting-artifacts low.
This will make the tram z.
The pain of the axis a * e, but at the same time, it will greatly improve the quality of printing. Tool-
I tried different tool heads, installation directions, etc to find the \"best\" tool heads.
At first I tried E3D V6 with the bowden extruder.
This is not resolved at all.
Due to the large travel distance of the Bowden tube and much more bending, great friction is generated between the tube and the last jamms.
I am trying to solve this problem with a different solution, but none of them works (
Install the extruder on the back of the frame, on the top of the center frame of the bed, use Capricorn and standard PTFE resin, use a filament oiler, reinstall
Assemble hotend many times. . . . ).
After that, I
Tie my E3D Titan directly to xcarriage.
All my interference problems are solved.
Obviously this is not a long-term solution, so I designed and tested multiple hople/extruder brackets.
At the beginning, I plan to use E3D Titan Aero.
A small extruder
Should be the best solution!
This is true-
It works perfectly as planned, but there is still room for improvement.
I tried installing E3D Titan Aero in different directions to reduce the overall footprint while keeping a strong fan connected to it for partial cooling.
The problem with this solution is that the components are bulky.
So I tried a different solution using E3D V6 hotend and E3D Titan extruder with threaded radiator.
In the attached picture, you can clearly see that the footprint of the tool head assembly is reduced by a large amount (
Yes, this is not fair.
The V6 version uses a smaller part of the cooling fan. . .
But definitely not less. . . ).
Not only is the overall difference in footprint size a great feature of the V6 tool head.
Due to the position of the extruder stepping motor on x-
Transportation center of gravity (COG)
Closer to the car itself, reducing the torque caused by the x-axis (see picture).
This is the real vertical offset (in z-
Direction of the printer frame)as well.
Vertical offset of Titan Aviation V2 and Titan Aviation V2.
The tool head is 32mm/35mm.
On the V6 tool head, this offset can be reduced to 3mm due to the fact that the stepping motor/extruder and Hotend/fan \"balance\" with each other.
V6 currently uses an axial fan of 40x10mm and a radial fan of 40x10mm for partial cooling.
The overall size can be further reduced by using a 30x10mm fan for hotend cooling.
In addition, the geometry of the fan pipe used for partial cooling is not fully optimized.
Frame components are very straight forward
You don\'t have to think too much.
Just use the correct angle brackets in the correct position.
In most corners you use the \"standard\" angle brackets, only in x/y-
Install the motor and idle people (
Top 3030 profile of Y-direction)
You use different.
\"Special connector\" is only used to install top 3030-y-
Extrusion of 12mmrail to the z-3030-extrusion.
Corner connectors are used on site with x/y idlers. The T-
Matik connector for installation 3030 y-
Extrusion on X/y-motor side (
This may be optional.
Frame extrusion profiles are connected in this position by printing parts-
But I have discovered these connectors recently and I really like them to make strong connections or enhance/strengthen connections with printed parts).
When assembling the frame, you have to consider two things: the pole and the motor bracket for installing z-
The axis is very self-contained. explanatory.
The shaft and spindle may also be the same.
But on the printer, a tram of this size can be a problem.
At least this is the case for me as I don\'t have any tools to measure straight lines or equal distances on 150mm or higher lengths.
For this, I\'m z-axis.
For trams, you need a spare 3030 extrusion and trams accessory.
This component is like a huge \"ruler \".
To assemble the tool head, you can use the greate guide of E3D: E3D V6 assembly 3D Titan assembly to correctly align and assemble everything, you have to assemble in the following order: first install the mgnz track on the 2020 aluminum extrusion and the MGN12 track on the 3030 extrusion.
Positioning 4 GT2-idlers on x-profile-
Install and fix them using M3 screws and nuts.
Slide the MGN9C compartment into the track.
Attach x-profile-
Use MGN12H compartment, 3x M5 screws, 4 M3x screws and 2x M5 T-mount to both sidesSlot Nuts.
Do not tighten M5 screws along the way-
After installation, they are tightened to allow some air to be used on the tram.
Slide the mgn12 H car into the track (
Already installed on 3030 profile)and dry-
Put everything on your frame.
If you do all the right things and your frame is moved neatly, it should be very appropriate --
Otherwise, slight persuasion may be required.
Do not use violence.
This may bend your shaft and you need to buy a new one.
Secure 3030 extrusion in place using 2x3030 angle bracket and 2x T-
Matik connector.
Slide the MGN12H compartment all the way to one end, slide back to the other end and keep it parallel while doing so.
After multiple repetitions, everything should be aligned.
Now you can finally tighten the 3x M5 screw on x-profile-mount. Slide the x-
The axis moves forward again to see if everything goes well.
If not: Release the M5 screw on x-
Try again with the profile installation.
After that, you can install the holder of the belt idle person on the frame, install the belt, connect the pulley and stretch everything. Congrats. Your x/y-
Gantry completed.
In the photo, you can see some parts that I have printed.
Zelda: The Breath of wild Guardian SwordUpdate on January 13.
Choose to add one (optional)
Thin Wire beat sensor.
It is really annoying to print \"fail\" for a long time because there is no remaining material.
Especially the printing size is very large.
As a \"sensor\" I used a standard miniature switch that only detects if the filament is loaded.
I don\'t want to implement a filament sensor where a material of a different kind/color doesn\'t work properly (Josef? ).
As you might have guessed from the photo, I used the \"reverse Bowdoin\" setting.
The tool head is driven directly, but the filament is guided through the traction chain through a 4-fluorine tube of 2/4mm (
3/4mm may reduce friction better-
Drag the filament path in the chain without constraints at all).
The Teflon tube is directly connected to the E3D Titan on one side and the thin wire beat sensor on the other side.
Here is a description of how to connect and set the filament sensor for duet: connect the filament beat sensor-Duet3DM591 -
Configuring the filament beat sensor I includes the parts of my wire shaft installation/rack solution.
It\'s really simple.
I just used 3030 to connect 2 pieces of 6030 extruded spare parts to the top of the printer (printed)and 3030 (bought)
Angle brackets.
The length of 3030 extrusion depends on the maximum spool diameter you want to use.
In order to catch the shaft of the line, I used the 12mm rod I lay down.
I think I need some bearings at first (
Especially big 2. 3kg spools.
But everything was fine until now.
Even \"Hungry? \" 0. 8mm Nozzle.
I have looked into several solutions for fast connector types and have chosen pogo pin/spring loading pin as a solution for my replacement tool mechanism.
The overall idea is simple.
I will keep the design of most parts. Except -obviously -
Parts that must be replaced for the tool replacement mechanism.
I can also Mill Aluminum x using CNC-axis-carrier (
Instead of exports in 2020)in the future.
First: I need 12 lines for each tool head-
Because the bed flat sensor is connected to x-carriage.
Need these wires: Rated current for pogo pin/spring loading pin I ordere is 1A-so I\'d need 4 (2xVCC & 2xGND)
Pin for heater cartridges.
I will also use VCC-
Heater box line of fan (
Total current on these pins
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